There is a more forward personality to the 2017 Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva, which pours a slightly darker hue. Aromas of black cherry, scorched earth, and violets emerge from the glass. Medium to full-bodied, it delivers more ripe concentration, with black raspberry, tea leaf, cedar, and rosemary. It is elegant yet expressive of the warm vintage, with fine, ripe tannins and ripe fresh fruit through the mid-palate and a great balance between roundness and elegance. Drink 2024-2040.

This red starts out round, turning more precise and taut as it builds to the finish. Shows cherry, wild herb, soy and loam flavors that ply the supple texture, before the tannins exert their influence and the finish tightens up (a good sign for the future). Best from 2025 through 2043. 1,100 cases made, 200 cases imported.

The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a dark beauty, slowly unfurling with dried cherries, exotic sweet spice, fresh tobacco and hints of mint. It's rich and dense in feel, yet lifted by cooling acidity, as ripe black fruits easily wash across the palate, leaving bitter-tea-like tannins that collect toward the close. The finish is tannic and drying, yet not severe, leaving nuances of plum and lavender to linger. The vintage has left its mark on the 2017 Riserva, yet cellaring will help relieve its youthful structure. That said, I don't see it as a candidate for extended aging.