The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is punchy and spry from the first tilt of the glass, featuring raspberry, roses, licorice and hints of flowery undergrowth. The bouquet darkens over time, taking on shades of cedar, along with blue and purple flowers. It's silky, pliant and savory, masses of black cherry and spice filling the palate with silky textures that leave saturating minerals in their wake. This tapers off long, dry and primary, perfumed with violets and lavender, as cheek-puckering, tart red berries linger on. The 2017 may be a riper interpretation of Fuligni Brunello, but it has enough power and energy to be quite pleasurable and balanced over the medium term. All of the Riserva juice from 2017 went into the estate Brunello.

This has aromas of camphor, cedar and oak-driven spice. On the tight, rather assertive palate, a backbone of fine-grained tannins underscore dried cherry, prune, licorice and tobacco. Drink 2024-2029.

Mulled plum, cherry, earth and woodsy underbrush flavors mark this compact red, which is concentrated and balanced, delivering more power than finesse and complexity today. Best from 2025 through 2039. 6,000 cases made, 1,650 cases imported.