The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino pulls you close with a bouquet of crushed ashen stone and dusty dried roses giving way to bright cherries complemented by a flourish of sour citrus. It floods the palate with silken waves of ripe red and black fruits over a savory, salty core of minerals and brisk acids that keeps the expression surprisingly fresh. It's persistent and concentrated, yet the harmonious structural build should carry the 2017 over medium-term cellaring. Castiglion del Bosco did a fantastic job finding balance in this difficult vintage. Of note is that this was tasted from the same bottle a full 48 hours later, and only improved.

Rich, exhibiting cherry, plum and earth flavors. Firm tannins line the finish, adding lift and definition. At this stage, there is a light astringency, which leaves a chalky sensation. Best from 2024 through 2039.

The nose is rather shy but eventually reveals camphor, blue flower, toasted nut and sandalwood. The bold palate features dried cherry, licorice and the heat of evident alcohol while assertive, close-grained tannins clench the finish.